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How the Calorie Ruined Everything

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How the Calorie Ruined Everything

I have never thought of food without thinking of the calorie. By the time I could read, it was there, on the back of every box and jar at the grocery store, alerting me to how many of these things I was about to put in my body. I never really knew what a calorie was, though as I got older and in line with many women my age, I internalized the idea that I should eat as few as possible. But I never thought deeper about it, or about how it became the omnipresent measure of all foodstuff.

According to historian Dr. Nina Mackert, interviewed below, it didn’t have to be this way. In fact, it probably shouldn’t have. The calorie, one way to measure the energy value of food, was not a particularly good measure of nutritive value, satiety, pleasure, or many other things we need and want from our food. But the calorie “was politically versatile and therefore successful in serving divergent political agendas and arguments,” she writes in her new book, Inventing The Calorie: The Politics of Food in the Early 20th-Century US.

The calorie as it pertains to food (rather than just a thermodynamic unit of energy) was developed in the 1880s, at the onset of the Progressive Era, a time of mass social and political upheaval. People were looking for order amid the chaos, writes Mackert. And so, as a “scientific unit for measuring and comparing food needs, diets, and bodies,” the calorie represented a way to quantify something as previously mysterious as the body (though whether it actually does that is another question). In an era obsessed with classification, whether that was timekeeping or attempting to categorize race, the calorie was primed to be adopted. And abused.

It was breathtaking to read how the calorie, a scientific measurement, was used to justify just about every existing prejudiced argument, some of which directly contradicted each other. A scientist seemed to pull the idea that adult women need fewer calories than adult men out of thin air, and yet I have seen that assumption persist to this day. Capitalists used the calorie to argue “that hunger and malnutrition were not caused by poverty under capitalism but rather by poor spending choices,” and that workers should instead learn what foods are calorie-rich and cheap. It was used to uphold white supremacy, with backward arguments that people of color needed fewer calories because they just didn’t work very hard. And then, as the economy boomed and consumers navigated culinary abundance rather than lack, the calorie did a 180. It was used to encourage the white middle class to embrace calorie counting and “moderation,” to differentiate themselves from the working poor and people of color, who were assumed to not be able to control their appetites. 

It also created new prejudices. The idea of the calorie seeded rampant fatphobia in America, as larger bodies began to be considered not just a happenstance of genetics, but “a sign of immoral, inefficient, and irresponsible consumption.” Health began to be calculated around “ideal” averages of weights, and the knowledge that reducing calories could reduce weight (however unreliable that association is) made being anything but slim a matter of personal choice — the wrong one.

As I read Mackert’s descriptions of how the calorie was used to legitimize anxieties that white men were “falling behind” at the turn of the 20th century, and how it was used to portray fatness as a symptom of laziness, I thought of every protein-maxxing bro that’s ever appeared on Joe Rogan’s podcast. It feels like we are again in a time of great social and political change, so is there any wonder that we are seeing white men embrace macro counting, protein gains, and other forms of vaguely scientific-sounding diet advice? Or that tech bros are constantly in pursuit of “optimization” of the human body? Or that, with the relentless marketing of GLP-1s for weight loss, we are regularly being told that thinness is as easy as taking a pill, and choosing not to do so is a personal failing? We are still looking for order amid the chaos, and over 100 years later, the calorie, and many things like it, promises that we’ll find it.

Here, Mackert, a professor of North American history and public history at the University of Hamburg, breaks down just how the calorie embedded itself into our everyday lives, and why despite constant criticism, it has endured.

How the Calorie Ruined Everything
A chart showing the relative cost of different foods based on how many calories they have, in an article advising housewives on calculating the "cheapest efficient body fuel." American Food Journal Vol. 15, 1920.

Jaya Saxena: What first got you interested in looking into the calorie and its place in modern society? 

Dr. Nina Mackert: I became interested in the history of body fat. As a scholar of body history, I was coming from a position of huge unease about modern fat shaming. I looked into the history of the Fat Man's Club, which was a group of businessmen in Gilded Age America, and they centered their weight. They did these weigh-ins at the beginning of every meeting, and the goal was to be the heaviest person. Newspapers started to observe these groups with growing ridicule, so I looked at these groups as an example of increasing unease about fat at the turn of the 20th century. But I felt there was something missing on the measures that emerged at the time. Not just BMI, which became important very much later, but I felt someone needed to write a history of the calorie, because it really is a key to understanding modern society and modern fat shaming.

Calories are just so ingrained in many people's lives as the main way to relate to nutrition and food. How did people think about the relationship between food and the body and energy before we had the language of the calorie? 

First off, it was not about weight loss before. People did not strive to become thin. Thinness was not yet an aesthetic or moral goal. It was connected to poverty, to hunger, to starvation. But also, bodies were not considered something under individual control. They were given by divine providence, or by fate, and there was nothing that you could control more to your liking. There was a mixture of different bodily ideals, and the absence of this individual imperative to change the body according to society’s liking. It was nothing that could be measured on a supra individual level. And there were not bodily standards; not even the idea of ideal weight was born. 

That was such a fascinating shift from talking about what is healthy for one individual person to the idea of an average ideal weight that suddenly you’re not living up to. 

One of my early projects with this book was to make clear that measuring food in calories was not inherent; it was a decision based on a very specific industrial logic at the end of the 19th century, when industrializing societies heralded efficiency and productivity. Modern nation-states were confronted with the problem of feeding the industrial masses, and they had a certain configuration of problems. Because of the scientific discourse on thermodynamics at the time, nutrition scientists decided that energy was a productive thing to measure. And the book shows how it became an allegedly self-evident and natural thing for us to measure calories. 

Whenever a political culture foregrounds individual responsibility for your fate, then it was a time when body norms were particularly aggressive and toxic

You point out how this supposedly scientific measure was used to justify all of these existing political and social views and prejudices, even when the evidence produced refuted those claims, or even when there's contradictory evidence. People seem to really be able to mold the calories to justify what they already wanted to justify. Why was this measure so easy to manipulate?

First of all, I want to say that it is a scientific measurement. And I think this is important. Contrary to pseudoscientific racism, for instance, there were all these experiments, and there were solid chemists doing things. Many natural scientists would agree that natural science produces ideas that are inherently fragile, and inherently tied to social and political problems. So it's not that I would say this is unscientific and political, but that it's scientific and political. I think this is really evident in these different efforts to set scientific standards and nutritional standards according to race and gender, for instance. 

One of the most interesting things to me while doing this research was that the current critique of the calorie that most of us are familiar with was already prevalent during the late 19th and early 20th century. That is actually impossible to mold bodies or health according to food energy units, on the basis of counting calories, et cetera. I'm really interested in how this mélange of scientific ideas, of political circumstances, political problems, created this very lasting unit that obviously sits on a very fragile basis. 

You write about how the calorie was used at this pivotal point in the labor movement, by the capitalist managerial class to position workers more as consumers. And this idea of consumer citizenship, where your diet, your health, and your ability to live are more about your buying habits than how much money you make. I'm curious to hear a little more about how the calorie allowed us to view others and ourselves as primarily consumers?

The calorie is about consumption, essentially. Its thermodynamic base locates the source of productivity of anything in its consumption. The idea of calories is that they provide energy for you to do something through consumption. According to the logic of the calorie, more consumption means more productivity. Even nowadays in Germany, there are always these discussions about how much money do people need? And how could we cut welfare spending? And there are right-wing politicians explaining how people can eat more cheaply by telling them about calorie counts. It can also be used in some initiatives for people to say they need to meet certain calorie needs; it holds the potential to ask for more. But frankly, it's been used most of the time to teach people how to need less. 

We have some very similar stuff happening here. RFK Jr. recently was telling people they should just eat cheaper cuts of organ meat. 

This large focus on consumption inherent in calorie counting is actually one of the main reasons why it became so successful in a consumer society, because consumer society is so fraught, so pervaded by notions of good and bad consumption, by notions of good and bad people, et cetera. Modern consumer society requires both self-restraint and consumption. It also measures status by consumption, and you're asked to consume, with pleasure, whatever the food industry throws at you. Many of the diet manuals in the early 20th century already say you can eat anything; you can eat butter, you can eat pie, you can eat cake, et cetera. But you’re also constantly required to exercise self-control. 

How the Calorie Ruined Everything
A calorie count sign at Costco. Jaya Saxena/Ravenous

Calculations of how many calories people need vary wildly throughout its history. And now we have this 2,000 a day standard recommendation. Where did that number come from? 

I don't actually know. Having researched the basis for these historical figures, which were already arbitrary, I can say that this number is an average for an average person, and this average person is obviously non-existent. You cannot homogenize all people by one average. But public health experts and nutrition experts and social reformers felt the need to explain dietary needs to the people in a profoundly simple manner. That's also where the 100-calorie portion came from; this idea that people needed to be taught how to eat properly. So experts came up with these very general simplifications that are so general that they might not be of use to anyone. 

My interest in this project came also from observing myself. I'm not exempt from all of this. I go into the supermarket and look at the back of products where the nutrition facts are. And it's like, how do these numbers gain their power to suggest to us the truth of any particular food? 

What you wrote about the Progressive Era, and the drive to view the body as this machine that can be optimized, sounded so familiar. It’s felt like recently there really has been this push for body optimization, whether it’s with protein, peptides, adaptogens, or whatever. Is there something in the air that is bringing this language of optimization back? 

I do see parallels between the early 20th century and the early 21st century. But let me start with the differences. If we look back on the Progressive Era, among many reformers there was this well-intended idea of alleviating poverty and the bad consequences of capitalism. They were being paternalistic and racist in the course, but it was, I think, a different project than neoliberal health politics. If you look at the course of the 20th century, you can see that whenever a political culture foregrounds individual responsibility for your fate, then it was a time when body norms were particularly aggressive and toxic. This changed a little bit after the Progressive Era, during the Great Depression, and with the New Deal, when the focus was more on collective solutions. But you can see it coming back in the 1970s, even before [Ronald] Reagan, with the idea that people were responsible for their health, that people's individual responsibility needed to be foregrounded in public health. 

We are also at a very particular moment in history right now. These movements can connect so well to neoliberal politics because neoliberal politics has been teaching us for decades that there's a survival of the fittest, and that there is a survival of the most responsible, and of the most able, and of those who can optimize themselves best. In the end, that has an authoritarian effect, because they naturalize a social hierarchy of the able, and these autocratic movements can easily pick up on that. I think that's the reason why we see this very fatphobic backlash right now.

What do you think about calorie counts on menus? 

As a historian, I am interested in them, but I don't think we need to count calories to talk about health. I think they are a technology of governing that seeks to nudge people to make the right choices, but not because they have a choice, but because these choices are circumscribed in a very particular way, and calories kind of suppose or suggest us in a very particular direction. 

Is there anything the calorie is useful for for a consumer?

I'm not a nutrition scientist, and I don’t have an agenda to teach people how to eat right, because I am interested in how societies talk about eating right, and how these norms of eating right work. So, I'm not the person to give advice about how to eat. I think the calorie has been important in creating the basis of modern food aid, and in modern efforts of alleviating poverty and hunger. But this also came with a certain price, so I would not say that there's any way of counting calories that serves solely great goals in an ethical way. I’d rather get rid of the calorie. 

This interview has been edited for length and clarity.

Ravenous is an independent food culture publication. Subscribe today to read everything we have to offer.

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sarcozona
2 hours ago
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Medieval art used fat bodies to represent gluttony all the time. Like yes there were changes in how we think about fatness and eating in the 19th & 20th centuries, but the general association and its moral valence isn’t new
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rocketo
12 hours ago
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AI Winter Is Coming

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Cam Smith helped create Siri. He worked in Silicon Valley for six years, much of the time at Apple, where he trained nascent language learning models to parrot human language and perfect the craft of next-word prediction. Like a lot of tech workers, he didn’t grasp the extent of the Pandora’s Box they were building at the time. He also couldn’t predict the way tech oligarchs would wield AI. When he finally quit tech two years ago to pursue making art full-time, he set out to use his toolset to expose the corruption at the heart of those corporations. “I view my art practice as critically engaging with technology—taking ideas and tools from the tech industry and exploring and exaggerating them to show their shortcomings and weaknesses,” he told me over email.

Tonight you can see Smith’s work at Passable Art in his solo show Surveillance State of Mind. The exhibit features many of the ideas he’s been pursuing in the past few years, including gutting and hacking Flock cameras to turn them into engines for new media art. 

Unless you’ve been living under a rock, you’re probably aware that Flock cameras are public enemy number one (or a top contender at least) in Seattle right now. Seeing a real one up close and pulled apart in Smith’s Belltown studio is a little unnerving. For one thing, they’re big—large and Darth Vader-esque with their sleek black plastic casing and many-eyed, glowing red eyes that drill down on every ant-like human scurrying across the city’s crosswalks. Inside, there’s a computer, modem, and a brick of a lithium-ion battery pack. With Smith’s modifications, they become cameras for art. Hacking these machines is easier than you think, he would like you to know. (His are all ethically sourced, he assures.)

Smith’s work spans a range of interactive devices. One of his signature pieces is a Mona Lisa-inspired digital painting that uses generative AI in real time to melt Mona and meld the viewer’s face with the painting. It’s a very surreal and (at times) uncomfortable embodied experience—a digital reflecting pool that mirrors and morphs in response to your proximity to an invisible camera hidden behind the frame. But the image of you is never quite right or accurate, nor within the control of the viewer to manipulate. Smith poses the question: “If a random artist with a cheap computer can hijack the world’s most famous portrait in real time, what are tech corporations capable of doing with your data?”

Other works are more literal takes on the state of surveillance, compiling hours’ or days’ worth of surveillance data (read: individuals) crossing the street, collaged into beautiful kaleidoscopic compositions that pulsate and blink across a redacted, blacked-out background. In some ways, Smith’s work feels incredibly romantic, old-world, and painterly-coded; it also couldn’t be colder and more contemporary.

Smith’s got an analog side too. Earlier this year, he collaborated with AI scientist Myke Walton to write and publish the zine AI MUST DIE. Inside its radioactive Brat-green cover (featuring a photo of a security robot nose-down in a fountain), AI MUST DIE lays out the sci-fi fantasies and tech ideologies driving Silicon Valley’s relentless pursuit to take over every corner of our wallets and lives. It also contains a huge list of resources reflecting the growing AI resistance movement.

AI MUST DIE (by Myke Walton and Cam Smith). CREDIT: Amanda Manitach

The zine keeps going viral every few months—this past weekend, thanks to a random post on X (a site Smith doesn’t even use). Smith estimates he’s sold or given away at least 4,000 physical zines to date, not counting the free version viewed online. (He can’t track that info because he and Walton “hacked the website together out of raw HTML in 15 minutes.” There are no analytics.)

Ahead of his show at Passable, Smith answered a few questions about his background in tech and the way AI resistance is shaping up in 2026. 

How old were you when you first encountered AI and what was the context?
I got really interested in cognitive science when I read How the Mind Works for a sixth-grade book report project. From there I got into Marvin Minsky and machine learning, but during this time period we were experiencing an “AI winter” and not much attention was paid to the field. After I dropped out of a PhD program, I found that some of the basic machine learning skills I’d picked up in cognitive science classes in college were in high demand, so I followed the money to Silicon Valley. I’m an atheist and materialist and was always interested in the “computational theory of mind,” but right now (2026) I’m worried that philosophical and technical discussions about AI systems are distracting from their real-world harms.

Were you ever excited about the potential of AI?
Yes. Like many in Silicon Valley, I believed in the liberatory power of technology—techno-optimism. Techno-optimism has now evolved into its logical conclusion—effective accelerationism (or e/acc), which advocates rapid AI development regardless of the costs, with the belief that the benefits of AGI (artificial general intelligence) will outweigh any downsides. Some of these beliefs were easy for me to believe in the mid-2010s when I was working in tech—it’s easy to think the products and tools you’re developing are more important than the political and social work being done by others.

Is there anything you find good or useful about it?
AI is a bundle of random tools. What they have in common is a metaphorical connection to “thought”—if you can describe your tool as “mind-like,” it’s AI. AlphaFold is an AI tool that mostly solved the protein folding problem, and its creator, Demis Hassabis, won a Nobel Prize for its creation. At the same time, the IDF uses an AI tool called “Gospel” for selecting targets as part of the ongoing ethnic cleansing in the Gaza Strip.

What spurred you to make the zine?
1) The rapid realignment of the tech industry and federal government under Trump. 2) My co-author, Myke, worked as a researcher at Census—policy work to help democratically govern AI. When Trump came back, Myke got the DOGE email from Elon and decided to quit. We had a few conversations. The word “zine” came up, and I convinced him to drive up from Olympia for a two-day intensive writing session at my art collective’s print shop (Common Area Maintenance).

The zine talks about hype cycles and AI winters. We’re currently in a hype cycle (the third one, according to you). Do you have a prediction for when the next impending AI winter will hit?
As the saying goes, predictions are hard to make, especially about the future. What I’ll say is that an enormous amount of money and power is tied up with these AI tools, and it’s really important to talk about them in a way that’s critical and doesn’t hype up the product or downplay its real-world negative consequences.

When the hype bubble bursts this time around, will we be educated enough to get exactly what’s happening? Will we emerge from the next AI winter better equipped to resist the next hype cycle?
I hope that more zines, podcasts, news articles, books, TV shows, etc., will be coming out that criticize and push back against AI, so that we can make educated decisions about how it’s used. The people boosting AI products are salespeople, not genius innovators, and we have to be careful not to get swindled—even the few genuine scientists in the space (Dario [Amodei], [Ilya] Sutskever, Hassabis) are too lost in the sauce. I spent years exploring and critiquing “alternative medicine” and “pseudoscience,” and when people are educated about these frauds, they start making better decisions that save them time, money, and prevent negative health outcomes—it’s the same story with AI products.

Do you think most people see through the hype at this point?
Some do, some don’t. Most Americans have at least some intuitive sense that AI comes along with “bad vibes”—and some of us go further and explore why it feels so icky. But in my experience, a very sanitized and optimistic version of AI is exported overseas. I’ve had extensive conversations (workshops, talks, etc.) with organizations in Taiwan, and despite people there being highly educated, worldly, and technologically literate, few know anything about the ideological underpinnings of the Silicon Valley billionaires pushing AI. Even in Seattle, the AI ideologies exported here from Silicon Valley are highly sanitized—you have to visit a startup or a hacker house in the Bay Area to get the raw, unfiltered insanity.

Speaking of exposing the unfiltered, your zine traces the connection between Silicon Valley and eugenics—something that’s been substantially documented by folks like Valerie Veatch. Where do you see the eugenics thread showing up in our current moment, culturally? And what should people understand about it?
You don’t have to look far to find evidence: Some of Seattle’s tech elite/art patronage has its own eugenics problem. If you can optimize and control some technology system, the thinking goes, why can’t you do it with the human race? Technologists are often smart and very good at solving technical problems, and have all the confidence that comes along with success in their field. But despite the STEM acronym, technology and science are very different—science, in the classic Karl Popper formulation, involves making theories that can be falsified by experiment in an attempt to better understand reality. In contrast, technology is about solving problems to get work done. Science involves lots of skepticism, critical thinking, and getting really deep into the foundations of truth and knowledge. Tech less so. So when techies wade into the intellectual waters of anthropology or biology, you get half-truths, misunderstandings, and nasty pseudoscientific frauds like eugenics.

Something else the zine calls out is liberal passivity: “Governments and corporations have demonstrated their total unwillingness, incompetence, and incapacity to meaningfully commit to accomplishing this goal.” Does that mean there isn’t much at this point we can do in terms of organizing political action?
I think there’s a lot we can do. Continue holding governments and corporations accountable. Vote, and vote with your dollars too. The midterm “blue wave” was partly a repudiation of data centers—a very positive sign that when Americans are pushed to the brink, we can respond positively. But there’s also plenty of space for direct action—hacking and destroying surveillance systems, poisoning databases, leaking state or corporate secrets, if you’re involved in one of those organizations.

What about at the household level—is there a meaningful way to divest from AI?
Harm reduction approach: Think of all the ways you use AI today and write down the alternatives. Start with the easy ones, like buying a cookbook instead of using ChatGPT to come up with meal ideas for you. Then move down the list until it gets harder. If you’re still using AI and have some technical background, think about running your own models instead of using Claude/Grok/whatever. Continually ask yourself: Am I using the tool in a way that gives me power and agency, or am I turning over power and agency to the tool? Do I need to use this? What are the risks and what are the benefits? Is this something that only belongs in the workplace, or should I use this at home too? Where is the data going? Who owns this tool? What do the owners and creators of this tool believe about the world, and are those beliefs aligned with my own?

Something pretty much everyone agrees on at this point (across the political spectrum) is that they don’t want data centers in their backyard. What does an effective revolt against data centers look like?
This is something I’m optimistic about: Something like 40 out of the 41 anti-data center bills that were on the midterm ballot got approved by voters. It seems like there’s already momentum here, and I hope it grows into a bigger and more nuanced revolt against the tech oligarchy. On the other hand, we might end up in a Singapore/China situation: Jensen Huang, the CEO of NVIDIA, was recently caught having an affair with the leader of an offshore Singaporean data center company—this company buys GPUs from the US, sets up data centers, and sells compute to China, circumventing US sanctions on exporting chips to China. We might end up in a similar situation, with data centers setting up across the border in Mexico.

What are the top resources you recommend if someone wants to read up on AI resistance?
The Nerd Reich by Gil Duran describes the rise of the tech oligarchy and its belief system. Empire of AI by Karen Hao focuses on OpenAI and Sam Altman; it also paints a picture of Silicon Valley belief systems. Valley of Death by Sharon Weinberger focuses on the convergence of private tech capital and the US military—an extremely important topic for the future of the anti-war movement.

The post AI Winter Is Coming appeared first on The Stranger.

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rocketo
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prognosticators

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prognosticators

If you're american (even if you're not) you likely know how the elections went last week. Democrats across the country made historic gains in almost every part of the u.s. They won more than most people had ever dreamed possible. As a former texan, I've been hoping the state would turn blue since the 1990s. That's the era when Governor Ann Richards lost reelection to a young tycoon named George W. Bush. Hmm, whatever happened to him? Never mind! Some people did predict that Democrats across the south would win big. People like Stacey Abrams organized for years to build durable and effective movements. Movements like the ongoing anti-ICE actions in Minnesota showed that everyday people could win. These networks took Dems and leftists to victory in places that many in politics had long written off.

But not everyone believed these organizers could ever pull it off. Even days before the election, many political pundits were outright wrong about who would win. It's one thing to hope (or sigh, bet money) in our free time about which way the electoral winds would shift. But this is their job. People get paid to predict these kinds of gains. Some did, calling a blue wave what we'd soon know as a blue tsunami. Others predicted that Republicans would once again beat the months of negative polling. They'd ride their gerrymandered red state seats back into the maw of fascism. Instead, a bunch of old racists whose names I've had to know for decades finally lost their seats (good riddance, Virginia Foxx!). So why were most people's guesses so wrong?

Bias. People seem to be living in smaller and smaller bubbles these days. I do it too—the block button on social media is like a canteen in the desert. Our worldview and the ways we perceive reality has a huge influence on our expectations. We expect something to happen because all our friends and family agree that it will happen.

Playing it safe. Many political pundits hedged their bets predicting election outcomes. The "safe" prediction was that Republicans would lose the House but remain in power in the Senate. This was a very likely outcome because it has happened before. Still, there were many signs, for months, that this would not be a typical election. Others don't see governance as anything more than elected officials making slight tweaks to their odds of reelection. Choosing the most likely outcome does not make a person good at predicting the future.

Benefits and incentives. Lots of people love the way things are. Some even profit from these conditions. Scott Colom is the Democratic Senator-Elect from Mississippi; he's the first Black senator for the state since Hiram Revels in 1870. He's also the first Mississippi Democratic senator since the Dems were the party of segregation. He called out Cook Political and other political groups for rating his senate race a "solid R." Colom claims this kept donors from funding his and other "longshot" campaigns in the south. Many of these campaigns exceeded expectations in spite of a lack of dollars, national support, and media coverage. Angie Nixon, a Black socialist senate candidate, came very close to winning in Florida. Jamie Davis in Louisiana also lost by a slim margin. Political pundits profit by predicting a future they themselves influence into existence. If they're right, it's proof they know what they're talking about. If they're wrong, they'll be back in another election cycle (please go away, James Carville!).

on educated guesses

Elections are a contest where one side always wins. We usually learn how things will turn out in a matter of hours, days, or weeks. But elections aren't the only times in our lives that we try to predict what might happen. Think about the decisions taking place in your community. Think about the ones that dominate your workplace. How should we solve them? How audacious can we make our dreams? What might happen if we manage to reach those dizzying heights?

An educated guess often forms based on a person's reasoning, experience, and personal gain. No matter how educated it may seem, it’s still a guess. The truth is that any moment could become extraordinary. We can prepare for these outcomes. We can even help them along. But when we resist the reality that's staring at us, it's our educated guesses that are holding us back.

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rocketo
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Made In America, Mostly: How to spot fake heritage

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Last month, my wife and I spent an afternoon walking around the West Village in New York. As we ambled between the boutiques and fashion houses, we passed a Buck Mason store. My wife pointed it out and said “Oh, I think you’d really like them. They make all their stuff. It’s all American-made.”

I was immediately skeptical. My instinct is that brands who focus on making things in America spend their money on making them, rather than on West Village rents. So I looked them up.

As it turns out, Buck Mason does make things in the USA. It owns a sewing factory in Mohnton, Pennsylvania, that makes some of its T-shirts from fabric knitted at its mill in neighboring Shillington. Some of its jeans are also cut and sewn in Los Angeles. They promote their “Made in USA” line in the top menu of their website, and the page leads with the mill’s story.

Buck Mason bought both facilities in December 2022, after Stitch Fix closed them and cut 56 jobs. The company then rehired several of the original workers. When the New York Times reported on the mill in August 2023, 20 people worked at the two sites. “It’s not a lot of jobs,” Mohnton’s mayor, Eric Burgis, told the paper. Co-founder Erik Allen Ford said “the dream” was to employ 100. His co-founder, Sasha Koehn, said being able to market products as “made in America” was one benefit of making them here, along with quality control.

I could find no public headcount for the mill since then. Buck Mason now has 44 stores, two of them on Bleecker Street in the West Village.

Curious about the scale of the USA-made component of their business, I audited the origin line on every product page in Buck Mason’s men’s and women’s catalog. There were 773 listings in all. Of those, 83 were made in the US, about 1 in 9. 385 listings carry the word “Import” without naming a country and 17 named Japan or England. The remaining 288 listings said nothing about where they were made.

To be fair to Buck Mason, many of its US-made items do carry a “Made in USA” tag on the product grid. Its US-made tees are also often cheaper than its imported ones. The Pima tee, made in the US, costs $48, while the imported Field-Spec heavy tee costs $62. Its Our Story page says its partnerships are “both domestic and overseas.”

Buck Mason is a fashion brand selling a mid-century American look. It does not shy away from applying “American Heritage” language and iconography in its marketing. But at least it operates a mill, employing some American workers. It is by no means the worst case. As I kept digging, I found some real shockers.

Roughly 97% of the apparel and footwear sold in America is imported. Buying imported is a perfectly reasonable choice for many people, and many imported products are high quality.

However, some heritage brands market the notion of “American-made” across the whole brand, while importing most of what they sell.

Shinola calls itself “The American Watchmaker.” On 92% of its product pages, I found no indication of where the product was made. Every leather and jewelry page I checked carries a paragraph about its Detroit watch factory, with no confirmation that the products were actually produced there.

Filson leads its homepage with the slogan “Unfailing Goods Since 1897.” They charge $149 for an imported 8-ounce flannel shirt. Carhartt sells an imported 8-ounce flannel shirt, labeled as such, for $55.

I suspect many people are happy to pay a heritage price if they know it supports American manufacturing. I certainly am. Some brands charge that price and sell you the appearance of heritage.

Today’s article covers what the law says about “Made in USA,” and names a few of the worst cases. I’ll run the numbers on what the heritage premium costs you, and share how to find real, high-quality American-made goods.


Worse on Purpose investigates why the things you buy are getting worse. Subscribe to get the next essay in your inbox.


What counts as “Made in USA”

The FTC sets the standard for origin claims. Under its guidance, any product sold as “Made in USA” must be “all or virtually all” made in the country. Its final assembly must happen in the US, and it should contain no more than a negligible amount of foreign content.

The rules cover more than simply saying “Made in USA.” The FTC judges “the overall impression” that an ad conveys. It says US flags, maps and “references to U.S. locations of headquarters or factories” can all imply that a product is made here. An American brand name on its own does not. The guidance does not mention whether founding dates or heritage copy imply US origin.

“Assembled in USA” is a lesser claim. It requires that the product’s principal assembly happen in the US, and that assembly must be substantial. The FTC’s Made in USA rule also treats “built” in the USA as the same claim as “made” in the USA.

The FTC also sets out additional standards for clothing. Under the textile rule, a listing that sells clothing online or by mail must say clearly and conspicuously whether each item was made in the USA, imported, or both. Every imported garment must also name its country on the label.

The FTC does enforce these rules. It sent four Made in USA warning letters in July 2025 (to flagpole retailer Americana Liberty, footwear maker Oak Street Manufacturing, LLC, football equipment company Pro Sports Group LLC, and personal care products manufacturer USA Big Mountain Paper Inc). In April of this year, it announced a sweep that included three law enforcement actions.

Imports and heritage brands

The average American wardrobe is now predominantly made up of imported goods. Despite that, the provenance of clothing still matters to many buyers. In a 2025 Gallup poll, 43% of Americans said it was important that their clothing and shoes were made in the US. Among people who said that origin matters, 71% cited supporting American jobs and workers when asked why, the most common reason. Only 39% said that they usually know where a product was made before they buy it.

Most buyers are not prepared to pay extra, though. In a 2017 Reuters/Ipsos poll, 37% said they would not pay any more for US-made goods, and another 47% would pay at most 10% more. Bear in mind that this poll is now almost a decade old. I’d be interested to learn whether those numbers have shifted at all.

Affordable clothing is a fair thing to want, and an imported jacket can certainly be an excellent jacket. Imports serve a genuine need, and the fact that consumers now have access to excellent clothing at more affordable prices is something I have no qualms with. I want to focus instead on the companies that market American heritage across the whole brand while importing most of what they sell. They charge heritage prices for the imports too. Shinola, Filson and Woolrich are a few examples in this group.

What the product pages say

To assess the level of disconnect between the brands’ manufacturing practices and their marketing claims, I compared what each brand’s homepage says with what its product pages say about where things are made. Counts are between the 31st of October and the 3rd of November.

Brand

Homepage

What the product pages say

Shinola

Page title “Shinola | The American Watchmaker”

514 of 558 give no origin; 33 watch pages mention Swiss and imported parts or Detroit assembly; 3 home items say “Made in Michigan”

Filson

“Unfailing Goods Since 1897 / Proven from the Alaska goldrush to today’s frontiers”

157 of 1,096 listings are made in the US, only 44 of them clothing

Woolrich

Page title “American Heritage Since 1830”

Every product page I checked names a foreign country of origin

Buck Mason

“Made in USA” in the main menu

83 of 773 made in the US; 385 say “Import”; 288 give no origin

Red Wing Heritage

“Handcrafted … in our Minnesota factory”

All 90 Heritage styles labeled Made in USA, a few with imported parts; a flag on every tile and the label under each product photo

Shinola takes its name from a shoe polish brand founded in Rochester, New York, in 1907, which went out of business in 1960. In 2011, Bedrock Manufacturing, the Dallas company owned by Fossil founder Tom Kartsotis, bought the rights to the name and launched the new Shinola in Detroit.

It assembles quartz watch movements in its Detroit factory “from Swiss and imported parts,” and it sews some of its leather straps there. Its homepage title reads “The American Watchmaker … Shinola began with a simple idea: to bring watchmaking back to the US.” Its About page headline reads “Designed and Built in Detroit.” The same page says it works with “hand-selected manufacturers in America and abroad.”

Shinola’s Google listing

I audited all 558 product pages on Shinola’s site. Of those, 514 (92%) provide no indication of where the product was made. That includes every leather good and every piece of jewelry, along with 120 of the 153 watches.

Every one of the 31 leather and jewelry pages I checked carries the same copy about the watch factory:

This $225 wallet is a typical example. Its page contains no origin disclosure. It does, however, carry the factory paragraph, under the heading “Reviving American Craft, One Watch at a Time.” The same section also says, “American manufacturing is thriving once again in Detroit.”

The FTC has looked into Shinola’s marketing claims before. In 2016, FTC staff closed an inquiry after the company agreed to drop the slogan “Where American is Made” and qualify its other claims. The letter found that 100% of the materials cost of certain Shinola watches was imported.

A Shinola employee who recently left the company told me they joined because of that promise. They wrote, “I joined this company on the basis that we were bringing jobs back to the area.” On a call, they added: “I thought we were making watches in Detroit.” Inside, they said, the company was “always kind of vague with us about what was going on.”

Their account of what actually gets built in the Detroit factory is narrower than the marketing. The factory assembles watches and stitches straps, they wrote, “but that’s it.” They estimated that “up to 99% of components in the watches were foreign-made.”

According to the employee, Shinola’s clocks are the starkest example. “They have clocks that actually say when you open the box up, made in China.” Shinola’s product pages say its 14-inch wall clocks are “built in the United States with U.S. and imported parts,” and that its 6-inch desk clocks are “assembled in our Detroit watch factory.” 13 of the company’s 14 clocks carry product codes ending in “CHN,” the standard code for China.

From a Shinola clock product page.

From a Shinola clock product page.

Leather goods follow the same pattern. The employee said nearly every leather item in Shinola’s stores carries a tag reading “Made in Vietnam.” On its website, 211 of its 238 leather product codes end in “VNM,” the standard code for Vietnam, including the $225 wallet.

Customers asked the employee more than once why the watches cost so much. “There is no good answer.”

Filson was founded in Seattle in 1897 as an outfitter for prospectors heading to the Klondike gold rush. The Filson family sold the company in 1970. It changed hands twice more before Bedrock bought it from private equity firm Brentwood Associates in 2012. Filson and Shinola share an owner, and the FTC’s 2016 letter covered Filson-branded products as well.

It still makes its Mackinaw Cruiser jacket as well as its Mackinaw and Western vests at its own factory in Kent, south of Seattle. As recently as 2015, it made 90% of its products in the US. In 2023, the Seattle Times reported that it moved up to two-thirds of its remaining Seattle-area production to a vendor in southern California.

The move cut up to 26 manufacturing jobs, mainly in Kent. Bedrock’s then-CEO, Awenate Cobbina, said the move was about management time and “was not a cost-driven exercise.” Filson declined to tell the paper what share of its products are still made in the US.

As of November 1st, 157 of 1,096 listings on Filson’s site sit in its Made in USA collection. Many are small goods such as hats, belts and home items, and some are made with imported materials. Just 14 listings carry the “Made at Filson” tag.

When I checked a random sample of 36 men’s listings, 31 read “Imported.” The homepage still leads with “Unfailing Goods Since 1897” and “The Original Outfitter since 1897.”

From Filson’s Homepage

Woolrich runs the slogan “American Heritage Since 1830” as its homepage title. Its heritage page tells the story of its Pennsylvania woolen mill. That mill has not been operational since 2018.

Woolrich’s Google listing

At its peak in 1988, the company employed about 3,000 people, and it ran 10 US plants by 1989. By 1995, it had closed six of them and moved much of its sewing to Mexico. A 2016 merger with its Italian licensee ended nearly two centuries of Rich family majority ownership, and in 2018, the Luxembourgish private equity firm L-GAM bought a majority stake.

By then, Woolrich employed about 250 people worldwide. The original mill described on the company’s heritage page stopped making fabric at the end of 2018, and its equipment was auctioned off in 2023.

Every Woolrich product page I checked names the country it was made in, such as India or Vietnam. Its homepage title still leads with “American Heritage Since 1830,” and the heritage page offers no indication that the mill it describes has since shut down.

From Woolrich’s Heritage page

What the story costs

Heritage brands charge heritage prices, whether or not a good is imported. Filson’s Alaskan Guide Shirt is made of 8-ounce cotton flannel. Its page reads “Manufacturing: Imported.” Filson’s European site says it is made in Sri Lanka. It costs $149.

Carhartt’s Hubbard Loose LS Plaid Shirt is made of “8-ounce, 100% cotton brushed flannel.” Its page reads “Country of Origin: Imported.” Carhartt’s flannel can be had for $54.99 to $59.99.

The Filson shirt costs almost three times as much as the Carhartt. Both are constructed from 8-ounce flannel, and both are made abroad.

Other heritage brands charge more still. Woolrich’s cotton flannel shirt is made in India and costs $195. Pendleton’s wool board shirt costs $198 and reads “Assembled in Mexico of USA made fabric.” It’s a different cloth and the product page is clear about where each part is made.

I have not tested any of these shirts directly, and the Filson does have some extra features relative to the Carhartt. Its flannel is a twill brushed on both sides, and its chest pockets are gusseted, so they expand. It also comes with Filson’s limited lifetime guarantee. The Carhartt also has extras of its own, such as triple-stitched main seams. Both shirts share the same weight of cotton flannel and a pleated back. Details like these probably account for some of the $94 difference, but not all of it. A large part is the premium that a heritage name can command.

What honest labeling looks like

Honest labeling means the product page tells the same story as the homepage. If a product is made here, the page says so. If it is imported, the page says that too.

Red Wing’s Heritage line gets the first half right. Its Heritage homepage says the boots are “Handcrafted … in our Minnesota factory,” and all 90 Heritage styles back that up. Each US-made tile carries a flag, and each product page shows “Made in USA” under the main photo. Its filter separates “Made in USA” from “Made in USA with Imported Parts,” and its Porter Moc reads “MADE IN USA W/ IMPORTED PARTS.”

From Red Wing’s Homepage

Red Wing’s work boots are less clear. Of 296 styles in its men’s work section, 61 carry a US origin label. The other 235 say only “Globally Sourced,” without naming a country. That includes its own $284.99 Traction Tred Lite.

Some brands get the second half right. Woolrich names the country on every product page I checked, and Pendleton names Mexico where it applies. Filson’s US pages say “Imported,” though its European site names Sri Lanka for the same shirt. Buck Mason marks about half its range “Import” without naming a country. Most Shinola pages say nothing.

Federal rules already require every imported garment to name its country on the sewn-in label. Some brands commendably also display that information clearly in their online catalog. Others leave it on the label, which you only see once the product arrives.

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Nearly 40,000 of you now read Worse on Purpose. Thank you. To stay independent, I take no money from ads, sponsors or affiliate deals, so this work is funded entirely by readers.

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How to buy American on purpose

If you want to support American making, the information is available… you just have to look a little deeper. Here’s how to check any listing yourself:

  1. Read the product page, not the homepage. Look for the tag or the origin line. At Buck Mason, it is a “Made in USA” tag when browsing the grid, or the “Origin” line in the Fabric tab on the product listing. At Filson it is the “Manufacturing” line. At Red Wing, US-made products are indicated clearly, right under the main product photo.

  2. Know what the words mean. The FTC’s rules give most of these terms a fixed meaning:

On the page

What it means

Made in USA

All or virtually all made here

Made in USA with imported materials

Made here, partly from foreign parts or cloth

Assembled in USA

Main assembly here, often from foreign parts

Designed in [city]

Where it was designed, and nothing more

Import or Imported

Made abroad; the sewn-in label names the country

Since [year]

When the brand name started; tells you nothing regarding ownership transition

No origin line

For clothing sold online, the listing should say whether it was imported or not. If you can’t find it, I’d skip it

  1. Buy the line, not the logo. If your reason for buying American is to protect jobs, what counts is whether the product is made here, whatever the marketing copy says. Several of these brands make some things here. Buck Mason’s US-made Pima tee costs $48, and its selvedge jeans are cut and sewn in Los Angeles. Filson’s “Made at Filson” Mackinaw pieces come from its own factory in Kent. Pendleton’s Made in USA blankets and Red Wing’s Heritage boots are made here and labeled as such.

  2. Price the story. Before paying a heritage price for an imported item, look up a plainly labeled one with the same stated fabric. The difference is indicative of the heritage tax you may be subjected to.

  3. Ask, and report. If an apparel listing does not say where an item was made, ask the brand before you buy. If you find a Made in USA claim you believe is false, you can report it to the FTC at ReportFraud.ftc.gov.

You can find the brands discussed in this article, along with dozens more heritage brands, in the Brand Ledger. Each listing shows what each brand makes in the US and how it labels the rest.

For a few of my personal favorite US-made brands, check out:

  • Duckworth, for great, technical merino clothing made from Montana wool.

  • Darn Tough, whose Vermont-made socks are the only ones I wear. They’re guaranteed for life.

  • My Green Mattress, a family-run company whose Natural Escape mattress is handcrafted in Illinois. The best mattress I’ve owned.

In Part 2, I’ll look at a number of brands that invented their heritage from scratch, from a rye whiskey distilled in Indiana and sold on an Iowa Prohibition story to a watch brand that credits a man who died in 1829 with its 2012 launch.

If you know of any excellent American-made brands or products, do share them in the comments or the community. If you live in another country, give your local heroes a shout-out too! Let’s give the companies doing it right some love.

Thank you, as always, for your readership and support.



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SIGNET CITY: Playing the City

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Hi Everyone,

Here we are at the final of four newsletters on Signet City’s influences, and some of the media and ideas that have been stirred into the melting pot for my new project. If you missed any, you can see the posts indexed below:

Reading the City - Literature and poetry

Visualizing the City - Film, comics and photography

Listening to the City - Music

Today’s final newsletter is Playing the City, a set of videogames and tabletop games that have shaped the development of Signet City from when it was an idea, to where it is at today, past the halfway point of its development. As always this list is non-exhaustive, but a curated peek behind the curtain!

Concept art showing the first-person player perspective of Signet City

This time I wanted to zoom in a little closer: games can be such massive objects—aesthetic, sonic, narrative, systemic—to say a game as a whole influenced me is less true than saying that some particular part of it left its mark. I so often find inspiration in the details of games, in single systems or ideas that feel potent and open to expansion or development. Part of In Other Waters conception, for example, was drawing ideas from the scan visor of Metroid Prime and the gorgeous topogrpahic maps of Destiny and using them not as subsidary systems, but the central pieces of the project.

So here I am once again going to break my influences into three sections, with one main influence and two related influences, where I will pick out just one element of the game that I drew inspiration from. I would always advise those interested in making games to play widely, and with attention to the details, you never know what small system or moment might inspire a whole project in you.


WHISPERS IN THE STREETS

Dishonored | Arkane Studios

I don’t know if there is a series of games whose cities have fascinated me more than the Dishonored games. So richly layered, so elegantly stylized and so cleanly refracted from the capitals of empire of our own world, they feel deeper than any other simply in vibes alone. Dishonored and its sequels are deeply connected to Signet City, in the same way that Mass Effect 2 is connected to Citizen Sleeper 2 or In Other Waters to Metroid Prime: not in pure replication, but instead as a springboard towards my own creation.

If I were to choose a single element of Dishonored that feels like it sparked something in Signet City, it would be The Heart, an equaippable item that you only need squeeze to be fed a poetic whisper straight from the soul of Dunwall. You can point it at places or people, and it gives them all a sense of interiority or history. “The ale here is sweetened with honey to hide the taste of river brine,” the heart might hiss. I love the idea of pulling threads out from the city like this. Its a magic act repeated again in Death of the Outsider with its rat whispers, and in Signet City it is the starting point of the idea of a whole game where you search for these reasonant moments in a decaying, layered city.

Disco Elysium | ZAUM - though people often compare my work to Disco Elysium, I do think there are elements of my approach, style and intent that are different. However, I have always loved, just like Dishonored’s heart, the way the Shivers skill lets the city speak to us, in the most beautiful ways.

Blades in the Dark | Evil Hat - Blades influnece on my work is well documented, but for Signet City it is the city map, with its districts and factions that I feel the strongest influence from. Theres something so elegant in its minimalism, it seems to ask, what is the optimum amount of information you need to tell a story in this city that is both true to the setting and still your own.


LIVING ART

Mundaun | Hidden Fields

Mundaun is a very special game, a grotesque and yet gorgeous paper puppet show about a cursed mountain and the shadow its history casts over a remote village. There are many special things about it, from its haunting exploration, to its spiralling narrative, but it is its aesthetics that I can never tire of. Rather than trying to look like a drawing, Mundaun is a game made of drawings.

At the heart of this are its textures, each sketched in pencil by the game’s creator Michel Ziegler. I love the way that at a distance they are a part of the whole, this monochrome mountain scene, but when you get close they collapse into gestures and marks captured in graphite. Charred wood and even skin becomes heavy marks, while tiles are sketched in precise grids. It gives an uncanny quality to the game that has been on my mind as I have been shaping the aesthtics of Signet City.

Half Life 2 | Valve - Another Viktor Antonov concepted city, along with Dishonored’s Dunwall, City 17 is one that has lived in my mind since launch day. But it’s the city’s skyboxes—the citadel cutting through clouds, the socialist blocks at the canals edge—that serve as the canvas for my imagination. Something I hope to provide the player with in Signet City.

Despelote | Julián Cordero, Sebastián Valbuena - One of my favourite games of the past few years, Despelote is a beautfully heartfelt trip into its creators childhood, and role football played in it, but it is the character sprites that inspire me the most, hand drawn in a simple style that helps them pop among the photo-textures that capture the city of Quito.


DAY BY DAY

Alien Squatter | Andrew Hagen, Shea Kennedy

An RPG that should have sparked a revolution in the genre if there was any justice in the world, Alien Squatter is a hidden gem in the truest sense where you must productively spend your days in an alien migrant camp as you try to beg, borrow and steal a pass into the city. It is written with incredible heart and humour as well as a deep awarness of what it means to live in poverty, but it is the game’s loop that I find so brilliant.

Each day you have a limited humber of “steps” to walk around the camp, taking on tasks, getting into random battles with cockroaches, stealing, begging, chatting and scavenging. The more you eat during the day, the more steps you’ll have during the next one. It is tight to the point of restictive, but gives the game a compelling rythmn of overlapping short, medium and long term goals, while still allowing for surprises. As I have found with Signet City it can be so hard to get a day loop right in a game, but Alien Squatter is a brillaint example.

Diaries of a Spaceport Janitor | Sundae Month - Many of you will know the influence this game had on Citizen Sleeper, but one element I love that fits in Signet City where it didn’t in Citizen Sleeper, is its days of the week. Both an elegant way to give a world depth and a way to give the players variety and rythmn, I could never get enough of the way Theday parties and music were always naturally followed by the trash-strewn streets of Onday.

Before the Green Moon | Turnfollow - A farming sim that is less interested in bucolic fantasies and more interesrted in the downtrodden community at the foot of a space elevator, Before the Green Moon is another exceptional but overlooked game. There are many parts of its subtle narrative and world I love, but it is actually the rainy season, with its natural progression from drizzle to downpour, that I adore. Farming games often treat seasons as distinct, with hard boundaries that don’t reflect reality. Before the Green Moon instead stages an constant transition from wet to dry and round again that makes its world feel real.


So there you have it, nine games that all played their part in my process. Together, with the books, photography, film, comics and music, I hope you will find something to love while you wait for Signet City.

With this foundation set, this newsletter will now be turning to news and updates about the game itself. you have all been very patient, but I wanted to take my time with explaining the project to you all and give you an insight into my process. Most of the reveals around the game will be coming in 2027, but I may be back for one more newsletter before the year ends.

Until then, wrap-up warm and be well,

Gareth

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reaching for you

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reaching for you

Last week I went to a concert with two of my best friends. We were there to see singer-songwriter Nick Carpenter, who goes by Medium Build on stage. Carpenter has been in the music industry for more than a decade. He comes across as relatable and charming, a person who seems at ease singing deeply personal songs to rooms of 500 or so. Medium Build tells stories about people who have messed up, who loved and lost. He sings about the yearning and mistakes and sparks of growth that dot the lives of most young people. I heard the room sing along to one of his bangers about depression when I thought, "I want to talk to Vincent about this!" Vincent is an internet friend of mine from Toronto. He saw Medium Build a couple weeks ago when the artist toured through Canada. We had a virtual sit-down this week to chat about how we connected to Carpenter's music.

Vincent and I found out by accident that we were both hooked on Medium Build. His music doesn't sound like that of any artist we'd talked about before. Vincent says that his usual flavor of music is well within the "pop diva" realm. He says, "I try to seek out male musicians who use he/him pronouns when referring to a lover," something I do as well. Vincent also likes ballads and slow songs but will on occasion dip into twangier sounds. The twang genre—not quite country, not quite rock—is one of my favorites. I grew up in Austin (the live music capital of the world, thank you). Most of the music from the region, the land of Willie Nelson and Stevie Ray Vaughan, tends to have a little drawl to it. My tastes still include a lot of synthesizers and pop divas, but I have a soft spot for a sad song set to acoustic guitar. Across our conversation, I noticed a few themes in Medium Build's work that resonate with us both.

a different model of masculinity

Carpenter identifies as queer or bisexual. "Everybody's hot!" Carpenter says in one interview. He often leaves the subject of his songs as gender ambiguous, or refers to them as "baby," or the like. On other songs, he make his attraction to many genders more direct. 'Drug dealer' is about the crushes we develop on the service workers in our lives. His drug dealer is a man, his bartender is a woman, and everyone loves "that songwriter" on the same track. He opens 'Thank you, Cook' with the lyrics, “when the masculine in you finds the feminine in me.” Gender is a spectrum in a song about the connections we may have across our long lives. The song is a personal and emotional end to an album full of such moments. But it also touches on personal growth in ways that seem inaccessible to many male musicians. In the first verse he talks about needing Cook more than anything. By the end of the song, he reassures them that the love they once showed him is how he learned to love himself.

His writing also blurs the lines of biography and fiction. Carpenter describes the song 'Hey Sandra,' as a letter that his dad might have written his mom if he needed to win her back. Vincent says, “he's almost mythologizing his dad and and straight male relationships. He wants to win his woman back by writing her a letter. At one point he sings, 'That lil' prick from Texas tried to touch ya and I broke that fucker's hand? [...] You used to like that tough guy act.' It feels like it's part of a story.” It might be this exploration that makes Medium Build's music so compelling. Men can mess up, make mistakes, fail their partners, and apologize. Carpenter’s songs don’t put the blame on the person he’s singing to. It’s not that person’s job to fix him. He can feel torn up about losing them, even long for them, but the work is his to do. Carpenter also sings on several songs about his struggles with body image. Lyrics from older songs like 'FatBrokeLoser' read like painful and self-deprecating diary entries. Newer songs like 'Armor' reveal some growth when he sings, "I wanna starve myself until I'm beautiful. Hey, what the fuck is that? Thought I could fix myself without the dysphoria." This is a topic rarely covered by male musicians, but one that a growing number of men struggle with today. I Medium Build's music offers a model of masculinity that says it’s okay to be vulnerable; it's okay to grow.

storytelling in songwriting

Vincent and I learned that we approach Medium Build's storytelling in different ways. He's not the first artist to sing about messed-up youth and bad breakups. One of my favorite artists, The Mountain Goats aka John Darnielle, often sings in that register. Vincent and I compared Carpenter's lyrics to those of women singer-songwriters like Lana Del Rey and Mitski. Music critics often ask women artists if their songs are autobiographical. This stems from the outdated sexist belief that a woman can only write songs from her own experiences. Sarah MacDonald writes, "Authenticity is mistaken as a synonym for autobiographical, and women have been told by critics, fans and their male colleagues they can only make autobiographical art." Women create personas to blur the lines between reality and fiction in their songs. Darnielle never wrote songs about stories from his own life until The Sunset Tree, his 9th album. Men are free to create personas, too, something Carpenter seems to be urging us to remember.

Carpenter's songwriting focuses on the emotional depths of the characters he sketches. I related to many of the people who show up in these songs. At some points in my life I have been those characters, these former lives of a person who's now grown up. I'm not the only listener who's ever been a little reckless in love. We all feel regret for the things and people we've lost. I am grateful for all the people who have left impressions on the many seasons of my life. 'John and Lydia' is one of a handful of Medium Build's songs that is explicitly about his parents. He intersperses snippets from the past with how he relates to them as an adult. He embraces the freedom of making his own choices and respecting the ones they once made. “Would we have been friends if we were born at the same time?” he sings. “Maybe in another life.”

I asked Vincent how he related to Medium Build's lyrics. I was curious if his life experiences overlapped his songs in the same ways that mine did. It surprised me to learn that, for the most part, he didn't. Instead, Vincent said, “the songs are like watching a movie about someone’s life, one that's not my own.” Songs like ‘Hey Sandra’ and ‘Misery’ are dramatizations of events that happened to someone around him. All artists borrow from and embellish the stories of people they know. But the way Carpenter blurs into his Medium Build persona gives us the thread of truth we need to connect with him.

parasocial connections to a stranger

At the concert, Medium Build sings a line from 'Never Learned to Dance.' It goes, "Buying weed on Wilshire, sexting with my therapist." The crowd sings along with him, but seem to get louder at that part. He grins at us and says something like, "I know you weirdos love that line." Carpenter worries about the fans who think the harmful relationships in his songs are normal. What does this say about us in 2026? A person who sings about depression is once again rising in the music industry? In another recent interview he says, “I get DMs all the time of people being like, "Our song is Triple Marathon." I'm like, "You should check the recipe on that cuz that song is unhealthy.” In many of his songs he wrestles with his growing fame. On ‘Perceived’ he laments having to turn his “private life into entertainment." On ‘Never Learned to Dance’, he sings, “Babe this dream I had feels like it might ruin me.” Despite lyrics that feel too revealing at times, Carpenter still comes across as a private person. Perhaps this is why he's quick to puncture the illusion of his stories in interviews.

I can see the appeal a songwriter might have in blurring the lines on the sources of their inspiration. Singer-songwriters aren't usually manufactured from within the music industry. Authenticity—emerging organically from the grassroots—is part of what they sell. People relate to an artist more if they tell a story that feels real. Songs about trauma feel more real when people who identify with them believe the artist has also experienced it. That vulnerability connects the fan to the artist in very personal ways. But we don't know an artist as a person when we hear their music. Despite the romantic notions we may hold, songwriting and performance is still a job. Artists are still part of a billion-dollar industry. The internet expanded how much access that regular people can have with celebrity. A post-covid decline in face-to-face interactions further fueled this desire for celebrity intimacy. Horton and Wohl first described these interactions as "para-social" in 1956. These are one-sided interactions where the audience falsely thinks they know a celebrity like a friend. It's well-documented that this belief is untrue (but huge business for many industries). It can also make celebrities, especially ones who are new to fame, uncomfortable. In 2024, Chappell Roan famously shared how uneasy parasocial fans made her feel.

do something productive

"I wonder what Nick would think if he read your article," Vincent said near the end of our call. "Would he be like, 'What are these guys talking about?? They don't know me!'" We laughed a little at the idea but I didn't have an answer ready. Writing this essay taught me how little we actually know about the famous people in our lives. I can relate to music without believing that the artist and I are the only survivors of those experiences. We will only know a sliver of most people's lives. Even among our friends, we know the most about what they choose to show us. Vincent is a friend I made from the internet. He visited Seattle once for a work conference but we chat online almost every day. Online interactions can certainly feel parasocial at times. Unlike most celebrity encounters, these potential friends can also deepen into real friendships.

What we do know with intimate familiarity is the interiority of our own lives. It can feel profound when another person holds a key of experience that matches one of the locks in our heart. When we connect with someone, we should see it as an invitation to share more in both directions. Even after we add one or two more colors to our palette, we still can't rely on a picture of the person we paint in our minds.

Medium Build, aka Nick Carpenter, is fascinating for many different reasons. But they're still two different people (or personas). I'm happy that I got to see Medium Build with two friends who are important to me. I'm delighted that Vincent was willing to chat with me on zoom for an hour after work. I'm grateful that Nick Carpenter's art found me when it did. I'm also grateful that he helped me create a deeper connection with some of the real friends in my life.

Thanks so much to my pal Vincent for talking with me this week!

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rocketo
5 days ago
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seattle, wa
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