prodigious reader, chronic forgetter
4645 stories
·
13 followers

"I Don’t Know How You Can Look at Minneapolis and Say They Are Better for Choosing Reform Over Revolution"

1 Share
Minneapolis, 2021. (Photo: Getty)

No American city has been as central to this decade’s struggles for social justice as Minneapolis. George Floyd’s murder by Minneapolis police on May 25, 2020 set off the biggest civil rights protest surge in our national history. Five and a half years later, ICE decided to make an example out of Minneapolis with a quasi-military invasion—which prompted a shockingly effective organized grassroots backlash that will be studied for years to come.

For the rest of the country, which associated Minneapolis more with “Minnesota Nice” than with fiery uprisings, the city may have seemed like an odd epicenter for our violent racial strife. But as Justin Ellis shows masterfully in his new book “The Cruelty of Nice Folks,” the history of race in Minneapolis makes a mockery of all that niceness. Ellis, a Minneapolis native who now writes for Defector, moved back to his hometown in order to do the research that allowed him to tell several intertwined stories: his own family history, George Floyd, the legacy of police violence, and Minneapolis’s long and sordid record of Nice White Liberals who failed to meaningfully reckon with the injustices growing on the other side of town.

I interviewed Ellis about Minneapolis, the failures of white liberalism, and whether defunding the police is possible. Our conversation is below.


How Things Work is 100% funded by readers like you who become paid subscribers. Cheap!


How Things Work: Early on in this book, you mention a dynamic that I’ve definitely witnessed in newsrooms, which is that when some big story with a strong racial element happens (i.e. George Floyd), editors tend to try to pull in every black writer to write about it. On one hand, this can pigeonhole black writers. On the other hand, your writing about George Floyd led directly to this book. How did you make the decision to pursue the book project?

Justin Ellis: I struggled with this from the jump, even as far back as writing the essay for The Atlantic that ultimately led to the book. I’ve worked in journalism and media for over 20 years, I’ve seen the way newsrooms pursue and abandon diversity inside the house, then scramble when they feel the urgent need to tell stories about black life (only in someone’s death). It’s all exhausting and insane, and by the time Floyd was murdered I thought I was done with my journalism career.

Everything with Floyd hit so much more personally for me. I lived a few blocks away from where he was killed while I was in middle school, I could tell you what the inside of Cup Food looked like from memory. More than that, I felt really motivated by the dissonance a number of people had over such a brutal police killing happening in Minneapolis. That people would believe a crime like Floyd’s murder couldn’t happen in Minneapolis says a lot about the myths and lies perpetrated in the city’s name. Ultimately, I thought a book would let me explore that more in my own terms with my own understanding of the city.

Hubert Humphrey is mostly remembered today as a guy who lost a presidential race to Richard Nixon. But you have a fascinating section on his time as mayor of Minneapolis, where he was kind of the prototypical Nice White Liberal. What can the nice liberals of today learn from Hubert Humphrey about the limitations to that governing style?

Ellis: Humphrey really became the template for what we’d now call a standard bearer moderate Democrat. You do not get an Amy Klobuchar, Josh Shapiro, even a Joe Biden, without him. At the time when Humphrey became mayor in the 1940s he saw the threats to Black and Jewish families in Minneapolis in stark terms and he often was willing to personally intervene on the behalf of people, whether that was trouble with the police or being able to walk into certain restaurants or businesses. He saw the power in organizing committees and outside groups to offer policy ideas or create pressure around fixing employment disparity and housing segregation. He was also a model technocrat. He fully embraced this idea of giving things like “the race issue” serious study and finding solutions through lengthy reports. He was one of the earliest local politicians to believe that you could fix policing through better education and training. Credit where it is due, Humphrey could have won office without doing any of this, but saw it as a bigger moral calling.

But ultimately Humphrey’s legacy on the local level is creating the theater of equality. Every single one of those things I mentioned above are from the playbook we see today. It’s a lot of measures that help reassure white liberal voters without giving up any of their standing, while leaving marginalized groups always waiting, saddled with this expectation of fealty to one party because the men wearing blue ties acknowledge racism exists, even if they never want to take responsibility.

It’s telling that all of Humphrey’s grand ideas are all for nothing because of his ambition for higher office. He won two terms as mayor and jumped to run for Senate, and in the process left Minneapolis essentially the same as he found it for black families.

Your book, like Elizabeth Hinton’s “America on Fire,” delves into a decades-long cycle that’s played out in many US cities: Police violence, followed by uprisings, followed by promises for reform and blue ribbon commissions that ultimately produce only “modest change and a photo op.” Did you come out of your reporting with a solid idea of what a better process would look like?

Ellis: I don’t know how you can look at Minneapolis today and say they are better for choosing reform over revolution. The mayor reorganized the public safety department, then there was turnover in the leadership there. The chief who was supposed to lead the transformation of the police force recently resigned in disgrace. Like most police departments in the country, the budget continues to balloon thanks to overtime costs. And at the moment the city is failing to even meet the basics of its court-mandated reforms. By definition this is insanity, right?

I think like anything in local government, having a process for the community to guide designs and offer feedback is important. But I think the starting point has to be a total tear down, not a rebuild. That sounds simplistic, but look at where making changes on the edges has gotten us? Revised training standards and use of force policies have amounted to departments that are effectively the same. The aim needs to be so much higher.

Minneapolis mayor Jacob Frey, who declined to defund the police, gets jeered in 2020. (Photo: Getty)

After George Floyd, the Minneapolis City Council voted to end the city’s police department as it was constituted. Much of your book follows the long and ultimately unsuccessful fight over trying to achieve that vision. Do you think that was always doomed, or were there strategic changes that could have been made that would have allowed the city to end up in a better place?

Ellis: I really go back and forth on this. The machinery of so many cities like Minneapolis makes it seem near impossible to break up modern policing. The city’s charter commission, an unelected board whose only job is to give guidance to the city council on proposed changes to the charter, basically a kind of local constitution, was able to stall the policing referendum for one year just by pulling some procedural bullshit over a Zoom meeting.

I do think there were flaws with the proposal Minneapolis residents had to vote on in 2021, namely that it was a loosely defined black hole that voters could fill with their fears. It more or less was a ballot question that said “do you support ending policing and giving the city council space to come up with a better idea over time?” To succeed in a movement like this you need something like a diorama, a model people can wrap their heads around to visualize community safety, showing specialists in dealing with unhoused populations, domestic violence, addiction, and maybe even a violent crimes unit. And you have to get people to understand one thing: “this is a starting point,” because it’s going to take time, and most likely the current police will remain in place over the transition. Because people vote scared. There’s a reason why the final weeks of almost every election we’re all inundated with ads barely above grindhouse movies.

I think my most naive or idealistic belief is that you need a mayor willing to stake their career to support this kind of transformation. In Minneapolis you had a mayor—and even police chief—who actively campaigned against rebuilding the police department. It shouldn’t be a political calculus to say “the police as currently constituted do not really work for this city or for you.”

Somewhat related question: it has always bothered me that the debate over defunding the police (which, to be sure, was never a genuine goal of the Democratic establishment) always devolves so quickly into bitching over the term itself, rather than substantive discussions of the underlying issues. Based on Minneapolis’s experience, do you see a path forward for the defund movement?

Ellis: We live in the most absurd era of bullshit rhetoric. It’s infuriating to see how “defund the police” became this weapon that could be so easily used against anyone who wanted to point out that law enforcement budgets operate on the same logic as a venture capitalist’s wet dream of hockey stick growth. Overtime costs for most departments only go up while case clearance rates mostly remain low and black people keep dying. Yet it’s wrong to say “maybe we could use that money in better ways,” because then you wind up as a chyron on Fox & Friends.

It’s now as bloated and captured as “woke.” The problem is “police reform” is the worst of all these terms because of how easily it is co-opted and can provide cover for cynical moderate liberals and the revanchinists on the other side. In the years leading up to Floyd’s death, local activists in Minneapolis were actually successful in clawing back or diverting money from the city’s police budget. And then Floyd was killed. And Dolal Idd. And Amir Locke. I think the way forward increasingly is going to mean bending light in the direction of an abolition people can live with in their communities. I think it will amount to all the ways police departments can have responsibilities, equipment and people peeled away. Or, to quote Grover Norquist, “to reduce it to the size where I can drag it into the bathroom and drown it in the bathtub.”


Share


Your own life—growing up in Minneapolis, moving away, then returning home in 2020 to both take care of your mother and to explore your own family history—is woven into this book. How do you think Minneapolis has shaped your life personally, in a way that wouldn’t have been the same had you come from another city?

Ellis: One of the things I really wanted to get at in the book is the liberal tendency to think that things will get better over time, that change can be incremental. That everything works through the often invoked and misquoted “long arc of the moral universe.” This is something that got ingrained in me at a very young age, that society is an ongoing group project that we can make better, but the results likely won’t arrive in your own lifetime. There’s an incredible chapter in Kwame Ture and Charles Hamilton’s Black Power: The Politics Of Liberation in America, that picks apart all the ways traditional coalition building is a busted premise because it works off the belief that institutions are inherently legitimate and can be salvaged if they break bad, and that you can have a working alliance between people who have always been on secure footing in the country and the people who have been traditionally vulnerable.

Now we’re seeing all the ways these traditional political teamups are failing and have so much evidence that incrementalism is ultimately bullshit that helps serve entrenched power. I think growing up around this kind of thinking helped me ground the book in the fact that a belief in good intentions or some unseen moral horizon ultimately contribute to a different, but just as devastating, form of white supremacy.

The book’s epilogue is about the recent ICE invasion of Minneapolis, and people’s remarkably successful fight against the Trump administration’s aggressive deportation efforts. In my modest amount of reporting in Minneapolis this year, I repeatedly heard activists talk about the ways that the 2020 uprisings laid the groundwork for the actions against ICE. Do you think that’s true, and if so, how?

Ellis: Yes and no. I think on a practical, or maybe tactical level, the groundwork definitely came out of the pandemic and the period after Floyd’s death. Yes, it’s organizing through apps like Signal, but it’s also the growing influence of mutual aid. I think it’s also devising alternative methods for block-by-block safety without police. Before there were people on corners with whistles, there were protectors and watch shifts in George Floyd Square. In the aftermath of Floyd one neighborhood in south Minneapolis started an armed patrol and filed a class action lawsuit against the city because police response times to 911 calls was negligible.

More broadly, what I saw in Metro Surge made me think about the toll of the immediate years after Floyd’s death. It’s true that for many people it was a wake up call to police abuses or the underlying rage over the city’s neglect. Could that make people feel more prepared, or more outraged when ICE arrived? Yes. But something I also wondered about was, frankly, white guilt, which can be just as animating. This is a city that had the eyes of the world focused on it for a year after a black man died under a policeman’s knee and then failed to change its police department. For some people, this likely represented a second chance at completing a white savior action.

But in my talks back in Minneapolis while promoting the book, something that kept coming up in conversation is that the outpouring to support immigrant families, while noble, quietly whistles past all the same needs that have been unaddressed in the city’s black community. I do think it’s true something did crack in the city’s psyche because of Metro Surge, because there was a new willingness to use the protective powers of whiteness to aid migrant families or just face down masked goons. But it’s hard to reconcile all that effort, to say nothing of the near-universal praise the city received, with the persistent systems of inequity that made both immigrants and black families vulnerable in the city.

You can order “The Cruelty of Nice Folks” from an independent bookseller, or wherever books are sold.

Leave a comment


Also

Subscribe now

Read the whole story
rocketo
5 hours ago
reply
seattle, wa
Share this story
Delete

Your Cookware Got Worse On Purpose

2 Shares

A couple of years ago, the small All-Clad pan I fry eggs in cut me as I was pulling it out of the dishwasher. A clean slice on my index finger off the rim. I patched it up. Didn’t think much else of it. I discovered what actually happened while researching this essay, sitting in a settlement archive three years too late to file a claim.

All-Clad had been selling its American-made stainless pans as dishwasher safe. In the dishwasher, the bonded rims corroded until the exposed edge got sharp enough to easily slice through skin. The company settled in 2023, capped at $4 million for a class covering seven and a half years of national sales, a rounding error for its French owner.

Anyone who bought a D3, D5, or LTD pan between January 2015 and July 2022 was in the class. If your pan was damaged, the deal was actually fine: a replacement plus $75, or, my favorite option on the menu, a trade of your damaged American-made pan for a set of nonstick ones made in China.

What never got fixed was the pan. Nothing was re-engineered to survive a dishwasher; the words "dishwasher safe" just came off the box, and the product pages recommend handwashing now. The claims window closed in April 2023 with most of the class, me included, never knowing it existed. Nobody mailed a postcard about the metallurgy.

I still use the pan. It's a good pan. But it turns out the cut on my finger had a paper trail, and so does nearly everything else in the cabinet. The cookware aisle runs on old names and new owners. With all of the mergers and asset handoffs, mapping who owns what in cookware was the most challenging of all the markets I’ve covered so far. Here’s the summary.

Six companies, eighty-one brands

Centre Lane Partners, a private equity firm, owns Pyrex, Corelle, CorningWare, Snapware, Visions, Chicago Cutlery, Instant Pot, Anchor Hocking, Lenox, Oneida, and Reed & Barton. That is almost all of the surviving legacy American tabletop industry under one roof, and we'll come back to it, because that story is a doozy.

Groupe SEB, the French conglomerate behind T-fal, bought All-Clad in 2004, WMF in 2016, Lagostina, the Emeril license, and, as of January 2025, de Buyer, the French carbon steel maker everyone recommends as the antidote to enshittification (let’s see what their new owners do with that reputation). SEB announced up to 2,100 job cuts this February, with German outlets reporting three plants on the block.

Meyer, a family-owned manufacturing giant out of Vallejo and Thailand, makes over 120,000 pans a day that almost never say Meyer on them: Farberware cookware, KitchenAid cookware, Rachael Ray, Circulon, Anolon. The KitchenAid pots at Target have the mixer company's name and Meyer's Thai steel.

Newell Brands bought Calphalon in 1998, promised nothing would change. It moved production to China, and closed the last American Calphalon plant outside Toledo at the end of 2023, 130 jobs. Newell is the company that did the same to Mirro in Manitowoc two decades earlier, and this April Manitowoc sued Newell for $6 million to clean up the mess it left.

American Securities, another private equity firm, bought Conair in 2021, and Cuisinart with it. Cuisinart's food processors were already the subject of the largest kitchen appliance recall in CPSC history, 8 million units whose aging blades cracked and shed metal into food, with 69 reports of fragments and 30 injured mouths.

Lifetime Brands owns or rents nearly everything else with a dead founder's name on it: Farberware kitchenware and knives, Mikasa, Pfaltzgraff, the American license for Sabatier. It manufactures almost nothing. Its one growth business in a money-losing 2025 was Dolly Parton housewares, up 150 percent.

The problem with buying from any of the above is the incentive underneath the label. When a brand changes hands this many times, the name becomes the product and the pan becomes a cost to be managed beneath it: thinner steel here, an offshored handle there, a warranty rewritten by lawyers instead of engineers, and so on…

Nobody has run this playbook with more gusto than Centre Lane. Run it all the way out and the ending looks like this: one firm holding most of the surviving legacy American tableware names, a state monopoly case grinding through discovery, and the plant that made Pyrex for 132 years standing empty in western Pennsylvania.


Each Worse on Purpose article names the corporations behind a different category. Subscribe to get the next one in your inbox.


132 years, gone in an instant

Pyrex was materials science before it was a brand. Corning invented it in 1915: borosilicate glass that shrugged off thermal shock. It is the reason three generations learned to take a dish from the freezer to the oven without a second thought.

One important aside about the product before the money story starts. The American Pyrex on shelves today is tempered soda-lime glass, a different material with a thermal safety margin an American Ceramic Society analysis described as borderline, roughly 55°C of headroom against 183°C for borosilicate. Consumer Reports collected 163 shattering incident reports, 42 of them involving injuries. European Pyrex, made by an unrelated company, is still borosilicate. The switch happened under Corning itself, decades before the buyouts. That is exactly what made the brand such a perfect acquisition: the glass had already been downgraded, the reputation had not.

In 1998 Corning sold the consumer business to an affiliate of Borden, then a KKR portfolio company, in a deal worth about $603 million. The new company borrowed $471.6 million on day one and paid Corning a $472.6 million dividend, which means it was born owing more than it had. It renamed itself World Kitchen, bought more brands with more debt, and went bankrupt by 2002. To dig out, it sold the one thing in the portfolio still growing, OXO, for $273 million.

Cornell Capital, a private equity firm founded by a former Goldman Sachs vice chairman, bought the company in 2017 and renamed it Corelle Brands. In 2019 it merged with the Canadian company behind the Instant Pot, valuing the combination at $615 million. What it actually bought is disputed to this day. More than 98 percent of the price was booked as goodwill and intangibles, and within days of closing a Cornell partner on the new board emailed the CEO to ask, "Is there fraud going on???" 

The suspicion, later spelled out in court filings, was that Instant Pot's sales had been pumped up with discounts and channel stuffing before the sale. The CEO's own verdict was that he was running "the most poorly operated 'successful' business on the planet."

Cornell held on to the asset anyway, and two years later, it got its money out. On April 12, 2021, Instant Brands borrowed $450 million. On April 21, it paid a $345 million dividend, roughly $200 million of that to Cornell Capital and its co-investors. The solvency memo blessing the payout assumed new product sales would grow more than 900 percent. In the end, actual sales missed that year's projections by $157 million. In June 2023 the company filed for Chapter 11, and the lenders that were collectively owed $391 million recovered between seven and nine cents on the dollar.

The bankruptcy is how we know all of this. The court appointed a litigation trustee to claw money back for the people left holding the bag. In November 2024 he sued Cornell Capital and its founder for more than $400 million, laying out the fraud email, the solvency memo, and the dividend math in an 88-page complaint. Cornell calls the suit baseless, and the case is grinding through a New York bankruptcy court right now.

Centre Lane bought the wreckage out of the bankruptcy and folded it into Anchor Hocking, the Ohio glassmaker it already owned. Two names matter from here. Anchor Hocking is the glassmaker: the plant in Lancaster, the name on the bakeware. Centre Lane is the owner: the New York firm that decides what happens to it.

Within six months of the purchase, Anchor Hocking announced that Pyrex production would leave Charleroi, Pennsylvania, the plant that had made it since 1893, and consolidate in Lancaster. Roughly 300 people worked at Charleroi.

Pennsylvania fought the closure and lost. Senator Bob Casey alleged the purchase had been structured to duck antitrust review: two-thirds of Corelle bought for $38.5 million, flipped into Anchor Hocking days later at $79.8 million. The state's attorney general sued to keep the plant open, alleging the combined company controls more than 91 percent of American glass bakeware. The judge declined to block the shutdown, and the monopoly case is still in discovery while the thing it was meant to prevent has already happened.

When offered relocation to the Ohio plant, four of the 300 said yes. The last piece of glass came off 114 kiln on April 11, 2025, and the plant whistle blew for 132 seconds, one for each year it was operational. A French industrial glassmaker tried to buy the empty plant last summer and reportedly couldn't get it past the FTC. Lawmakers say the FTC wants want consumer glass made there or nothing.

Tony Payne, an engineer who spent 36 years inside the plant, told the Mon Valley Independent that "fifty percent of Pyrex is now being made outside of Anchor because they can't make it." That claim is his alone, but there is precedent for what happens to the label when Pyrex gets made elsewhere: in January 2023, under the previous owner, the FTC made the company pay for stamping Made in USA on Pyrex measuring cups that came from China. Even the lawyers had to chase the owner. Jones Day sued Centre Lane for $9.6 million in unpaid legal bills this February, naming Anchor Hocking and Corelle Brands among the co-defendants. They settled confidentially last week.

Anchor Hocking itself has run this gauntlet several times: a hostile takeover by Newell in 1987, Cerberus into bankruptcy by 2006, then Monomoy Capital, which bought it for about $75 million, borrowed against it and charged it fees, before the whole thing went bankrupt again in 2015. Brian Alexander wrote a fantastic book about what two decades of financial engineering did to Lancaster, Ohio, called Glass House. His summary of the Monomoy years holds for the entire industry: they "put a little money in and pulled a wagonload of money out."

Under Centre Lane's ownership, the extraction tactics found their final form. In 2023 Anchor Hocking sold its own factory, the building responsible for nearly all of its production, and leased it back for 25 years. Three different owners have now monetized the same plant. The people of Lancaster still work in it. They just don't own any of it, and neither, anymore, does their employer.

Names for rent

Lancaster at least still has its factory. The purer version of the same move is to close the factory outright and keep nothing but the name. The cleanest example of that strategy is Farberware.

S.W. Farber's plant in the Bronx made Farberware pans from 1900 until 1996, when two buyers carved up the company, shut the plant for good, and moved production to Indonesia. Because those buyers filed their paperwork with the SEC, we know exactly what a beloved American brand is worth once the factory attached to it is gone.

Meyer paid $25.5 million, once, for an exclusive worldwide license to put the Farberware name on cookware for a term of 200 years. Not a typo. The lease runs to the year 2196. Nobody alive will see it expire, and nobody involved will ever make a Farberware pan in the Bronx again.

Once you understand the brand licensing structure, you see it everywhere, and the pattern is always the same: one company owns the name, a different company makes the product, and the factory that earned the name is liquidated. Chicago Cutlery began as a knife shop in Chicago and later made its knives in Wauconda, Illinois. Centre Lane owns the name today, and every knife under it is made in China. Sabatier, the storied French knife name, was never one company to begin with, and today more than 30 unrelated firms have rights to it. The Sabatier on American shelves is rented by Lifetime Brands and made in China. Revere Ware rode along in the same Corning spinoff as Pyrex, lost its Illinois plant in 1999, and was discontinued so quietly that the enthusiasts who sell replacement parts had to break the news. Pfaltzgraff made stoneware in York County, Pennsylvania from the early 1800s on. Lifetime Brands bought the brand for $32.5 million in 2005 and deliberately left the pottery out of the deal. Roughly 250 workers got 60-day notices, and the name went to Asia without them.

The Stanley on the viral tumbler and the Stanley on the tape measure are different companies that have shared a name for decades under negotiated truces. The tumbler side belongs to PMI, a Seattle firm that bought the drinkware brand in 2002. TikTok took its Quencher from $73 million to $750 million in annual sales in four years. In December 2024 the CPSC recalled 2.6 million of its travel mugs after lids came off hot and burned 38 people. Two months later, Stanley Black & Decker sued PMI, arguing the new "Stanley 1913" branding breaks the old agreements that kept the two Stanleys out of each other's lanes. The name is the asset worth suing over. The product is the thing that got recalled.

Tupperware ends the same way. It went bankrupt in 2024 and now belongs to a lender group that includes Alden Global Capital, the fund best known for strip-mining American newspapers. Its last American plant, in Hemingway, South Carolina, closed within months, taking 148 jobs. Production moved to Mexico.

Worse from birth

The old brands took decades to get worse. The new ones started worse and spent the difference on ads. Four brands define the tier: Caraway, Our Place, HexClad, and Great Jones. All of them launched in the late 2010s, all of them manufacture in China, and all of them built their businesses on marketing spend rather than materials.

Caraway and Our Place sell the pastel pans: aluminum bodies under a ceramic "sol-gel" nonstick coating, pitched as the healthy alternative to Teflon. The materials science on that coating is peer-reviewed and brutal. A 2025 study ran five commercial ceramic coatings against ordinary PTFE across 90 simulated cooking cycles, and PTFE held its release performance the whole way while the best ceramics quit somewhere between cycle 30 and 60. Cook eggs daily and that is a pan with a working life that is measured in months. Both companies put that lifespan in the paperwork. Caraway covers its coating for one year. Our Place covered its coating for one year too, until May 2025, when it extended coverage on new purchases to three years after complaints about early coating failure had piled up in public. Let’s see how those claims end up being serviced.

Since the pans can't win on durability, Caraway sells fear of the alternative, and the consequences of that strategy have gotten expensive. Last August the ad industry's self-regulator ordered it to drop claims that ordinary nonstick releases toxins into your food, along with an unsupported claim about a "rise in Teflon flu." Caraway kept pushing, and this February the owners of All-Clad and Farberware sued it in federal court over the toxicity marketing. When the conglomerates from the first half of this essay are the ones calling your health claims false, you have accomplished something notable.

HexClad, the Gordon Ramsay brand, ran the fear play with a different surface and got caught more directly. Its "hybrid" pans were marketed as non-toxic and PFAS-free while containing PTFE, which is a PFAS. The class action settled this February: 209,712 people filed claims and got about six dollars each. Judged purely as a pan, America's Test Kitchen found the laser-etched surface failed at releasing an egg. Durable enough to survive steel wool, unable to do the one job nonstick exists for.

Great Jones compressed the whole VC-funded DTC extraction formula into four years: media-darling launch in 2019, a cofounder war that saw all six full-time employees quit by late 2020, and a quiet 2023 absorption by Meyer, the licensing giant from earlier in this story. The $160 Dutchess dutch oven is made in China with a chipping problem the reviews documented from early on, an issue I can attest to personally.

One DTC brand deserves the exception flag. Made In never raised the money that ruins these companies. Its documented funding totals about $8.3 million, against roughly $70 million at Caraway and the $100 million Gordon Ramsay's studio put behind HexClad. The founders still run it. A company that can't afford to buy its customers has to earn them, so the budget went into the product: family-owned partner factories in France and Italy plus American mills, a win in America's Test Kitchen's stainless rankings, and pans in actual restaurants. Its nonstick warranty even admits the coatings are "consumable by nature", which is perhaps the most honest sentence published by any cookware company this decade. Buy their stainless and carbon steel and treat every nonstick pan from anyone, at any price, as a consumable.

What to buy instead

The counter-list in this category runs deeper than any I've covered previously, because cookware is simple enough that stubborn, family-run businesses can still compete. The pattern in who survived is uniform: nobody outside the family has ever been owed a return.

Cast iron

  • Lodge: Owned by about 40 members of the founding families, two foundries in South Pittsburg, Tennessee since 1896, and still under $30 for a skillet your grandchildren will likely inherit.

  • Smithey: Founder-owned in Charleston, South Carolina. Smooth-finish heirloom pieces at heirloom prices.

  • Field Company: Brothers-owned, cast at US foundries. The lightweight, vintage-style pan.

  • Stargazer: Founder-owned in Allentown, Pennsylvania. Machined cooking surface, honest price.

  • Lancaster Cast Iron: Founder-owned in Conestoga, Pennsylvania with a fully domestic supply chain.

  • Borough Furnace: A husband-and-wife shop in Owego, New York that pours its own recycled iron in-house, which almost nobody in this country still does.

Enameled cast iron

  • Le Creuset: Privately held, and the cast iron still comes out of the same French foundry it has since 1925. The stoneware and accessories come from Asia, so buy the iron.

  • Staub: Still made in Merville, France under Zwilling, the German family conglomerate that has so far acquired without gutting.

Stainless and carbon steel

  • All-Clad: The bonded lines are still made in Canonsburg, Pennsylvania, sharp-rim settlement and French owner notwithstanding.

  • Heritage Steel: Family-owned in Clarksville, Tennessee, building on old Vollrath tooling. The fully American clad alternative.

  • Tramontina: Family-controlled in Brazil. The honest value play; their clad line embarrasses pans at twice the price.

  • de Buyer: The carbon steel standard, still made in the Vosges. It belongs to Groupe SEB as of January 2025, so it’s one to watch over the next few years.

  • Matfer Bourgeat: The French commercial standard, family-held, and what a lot of commercial kitchens use.

Knives

  • Victorinox: 90 percent owned by a foundation built to prevent exactly the kind of sale this essay is about. The Fibrox chef's knife is the best $45 in any kitchen. All my knives are Victorinox - I plan to cover their story in an independent article.

  • Wüsthof: Seventh-generation family ownership, forged in Solingen.

  • Dexter-Russell: The knife in every American commercial kitchen, made in Southbridge, Massachusetts since 1818, still family-held.

Bakeware and glass

On glass bakeware, the unfortunate truth is that both American options are soda-lime. If you want borosilicate, buy European Pyrex online or thrift the old stuff.

Dinnerware and flatware

Special mentions

  • Vitamix: Barnard family since 1921, Ohio-made, repairable. The appliance that gets willed to people.

  • All American 1930: The pressure canner, cast since 1930 by a family foundry in Manitowoc, Wisconsin, the same town Newell abandoned and got sued by. The town that lost Mirro still makes the best canner on earth. Some receipts write themselves.

Every brand named in this essay, and 89 in total from this research, now has an entry in the kitchen section of The Brand Ledger: who owns it, where it's made, the verdict, and what would change my mind. When an owner changes or a verdict moves, subscribers hear first.

Everything above reduces to four rules you can run in about two minutes, standing in the aisle:

  • Look up the owner, not the name. The name is the cheapest part of the company to preserve. If the ownership trail ends at a private equity firm or a licensing group, assume the product and the reputation are no longer aligned.

  • Read the warranty before the reviews. Its length is the company's own estimate of how long the product lasts, and its exclusions are a list of the ways they expect it to fail.

  • Buy bare metal where you can. Cast iron, carbon steel, plain stainless. No coating means nothing that dies at cycle 40 and nothing to rebuy in eighteen months.

  • Distrust a name that's on everything. When the same brand appears on your pan, your knives, your toaster, and a box fan, nobody who owns it makes anything.

Worse on Purpose is reader funded and staunchly independent. 

If you enjoyed this one, you can fund the next investigation with any amount below.

Support the work →



Read the whole story
rocketo
7 days ago
reply
seattle, wa
sarcozona
10 days ago
reply
Epiphyte City
Share this story
Delete

Sawant’s Ground Game Against Adam Smith Is Getting Red Hot

1 Share

On July 12, Columbia City experienced a hiphop/R&B/funk event organized by Beatwalk. A festival held primarily on a closed off section of South Ferdinand Street, Beatwalk includes participation from small area businesses (including Island Soul and Taco City) and a good number of  performances (including singer/pianist Darrius Willrich and The Double Dutch Divas). Because the weather was perfect—not too hot but lots of sun—people crowded the street, most of them Black, middle-aged, middle class, with kids and grandkids. Also in attendance was, much to the surprise of Beatwalk’s organizers, Kshama Sawant’s team. They had three tables and about 10 volunteers searching for voters in the race for Congressional District 9, a seat that Adam Smith has held since 1997. 

Now, why is this at all important? For one, as Beatwalk’s director Tisha Gallow pointed out to me in a text: “The fact that [Sawant] even knew about Beatwalk is impressive because it is small and all about community… It’s a mini Black Festival in South Seattle.” It’s mostly absent from Seattle’s main cultural radar. But somehow it’s on Sawant’s. But it’s clearly not on that of her main rival in the race, the conventional and pro-war Dem Adam Smith (Melissa Chaudhry, the third main candidate in the race can be dismissed for reasons relating to her non-public position on LGBTQ rights and her bizarre plan to eventually do a party “switcheroo” if she wins a slot in the primaries.)  

Why wasn’t Smith in Columbia City on Sunday? Kate Bond, Beatwalk’s operations manager, has this answer: “Adam Smith not showing might loosely relate to a lack of visibility into what happens in SE Seattle because we are so often overlooked.” In an email sent the day after Beatwalk, Smith’s team countered her interpretation by claiming that Team Smith is actually very plugged in. They had attended “Auburn 4th, Federal Way 4th, Kent Cornucopia, Mercer Island Summer, and Seattle Pride.” But Sawant’s team not only attended two of those mentioned events (Kent Cornucopia, Pride), but also, and get ready, attended: Green River Farm Stand, Federal Way Farmers Market, SeaTack Farmers Market, Music at Angle Lake Park, Kent Music at Morrill Meadows Park, Auburn Farmers Market, Trans Pride, and 13 more events. And while Smith was attending the Auburn 4th, Sawant attended the Somali Independence Day in Rainier Beach on July 4th. What a class difference.

Despite the criticisms Seattle’s most-famous socialist faces from the left and right, and criticisms that often appear with racist and sexist baggage—scolds from the “know your place” crowd, if I may borrow an expression by the LA/Seattle-based filmmaker Zia Mohajerjasbi—it’s impossible to dismiss Sawant’s determination, resolution, and organizational finesse. 

It’s not enough to say she is divisive. That explains next to nothing. Nor can Sawant’s past successes (she was elected once for what used to be Position 2 on the Seattle City Council, and two times for what became and still is the 3rd District in City Council) be attributed to her strictly leftist positions. Sawant means business, and so easily stands out among the wafflers and the candidates who take voters for granted. For her, every vote counts.

Combine that ground game in an emerging political climate that’s become more and more anti-war and critical of Israel’s total destruction of Gaza and swaths of Lebanon, and you have a real recipe for an Adam Smith disaster. Indeed, his kind (established Dems), have recently been dethroned by social democrats and progressives in New York and Colorado—in part because they have yet to provide an answer to the “Palestinian question” that involves peace; and in part because the Democratic Socialists of America’s candidates are, like Sawant, serious political organizers. 

To make matters worse for Smith, mainstream media is facing Israeli messaging with tougher questions, as exemplified by the recent appearance of Israel’s ambassador to the US, Michael Leiter on CBS’s Face The Nation With Margaret Brennan. During the show, Leiter, who claimed J Street (a liberal Jewish American organization that doesn’t support the current Israeli government) was “irrelevant” and not really Jewish. Brennan did not at all hide her shock at this brazen assertion. 

But Sawant’s position on Gaza, her push for higher wages and affordable housing for the working classes, and her call to end Immigration and Customs Enforcement are not enough to beat Smith. Indeed, Melissa Chaudhry held similar positions when she ran against Smith in 2024, but she still lost by a whopping 33 percent. Why? Because Chaudhry didn’t have Sawant’s organizational capacity. In the coming days, her team will be found at the main Link stops, at a grocery store in Skyway, and, of course, the next Beatwalk.

The post Sawant’s Ground Game Against Adam Smith Is Getting Red Hot  appeared first on The Stranger.

Read the whole story
rocketo
12 days ago
reply
seattle, wa
Share this story
Delete

The looting of science fiction

1 Share

Painting of a cylindrical space habitat with green landscapes, rivers and planets visible against a starry sky.

Tech titans claim the genre inspired them. But all they’ve done is graft their politics onto stories of a better future

- by Ali Rıza Taşkale

Read on Aeon

Read the whole story
rocketo
12 days ago
reply
seattle, wa
Share this story
Delete

Lindsey Graham Dead, World No Worse

1 Comment

The Republican Senator Lindsey Graham of South Carolina died on Saturday, after what reports have called a "brief and sudden illness" following an official visit to Ukraine. He was 71. In 2003 Graham succeeded ancient dread Confederate mummy Strom Thurmond in the Senate, and was an actively malevolent force in American society for all the remaining 23 years of his life, at a scale larger than he'd been an actively malevolent force in American society for the preceding 48.

Graham's hatreds and bigotries were bog standard for his party, and they were legion. He hated gay and queer people; he hated black and brown people; he hated Muslims; he hated liberals; he hated efforts to make the nation more just, the environment cleaner, the future better. He hated free speech and the free press and privacy for anyone else. He hated the idea that the United States ought ever to be constrained by anything other than its own self-interest, as defined exclusively by guys like him. He hated the expectation that the United States would ever project its might with anything less than maximal imperial violence and bloodlust. He hated all of these with blithe good-ol'-boy cheer and the sneer of the frontrunner. He went on The Daily Show a bunch, so that both sides could playact a kind of broadminded comity that the suckers they both held in contempt just lap right up. Guh hyuk hyuk hyuk, isn't it charming how I want all of y'awl dead.

For a little while in the aughts and again at intervals Graham played at a kind of shriekingly insincere, cornpone Bible College John McCain act, pretending to part with his party on judicial nominees, on immigration reform, on gun control, on vaccines, when that fake disunity could be performed safely at the "sponsoring a doomed, dead-on-arrival bill" or "going on Meet the Press" stage and abandoned long before anybody had to cast a vote. Like many in his party he pretended to care about decorum and civility when he thought Donald Trump was just a freak novelty act the establishment would eventually crush; like everyone in his party he ditched that pretense as soon as the prediction turned out to be wrong. He spent the last decade of his life letting Donald Trump wear him as a glove and telling himself it was the other way around. It bought him the war with Iran he'd worked for decades to make happen, and he fucked off the mortal coil before he could be made to reckon with it being a failure.



Read the whole story
rocketo
13 days ago
reply
“If the person who actively seeks to prostrate your neighbors, friends, and supporters—who wants to see them miserable and afraid and unsafe, who fights to enshrine into law that they may live no other way—isn't your enemy, the word has no meaning.”
seattle, wa
Share this story
Delete

Our Plastic-Surgery Nightmare

1 Comment
As cosmetic procedures become both more invisible and more extreme, our connection to reality is fraying.
Read the whole story
rocketo
15 days ago
reply
“There is a version of human beauty that exists alongside, underneath, and entirely separate from today’s warped ideal—a version that emerges simply from immanence, from the specificity and inalienability of each existence, including our own.”
seattle, wa
Share this story
Delete
Next Page of Stories