
There’s a commercial I see when I watch television shows on streaming services for store-bought naan that drives me fucking crazy. The characters in this commercial repeatedly describe naan as “a delicious fluffy flatbread,” in a way that feels like they want to erase all the connections that naan has to a culture and a place. They don’t mention India, or Pakistan, or any of the Asian and Arab countries where naan is a typical accompaniment to meals. It’s a flatbread! A delicious, fluffy flatbread! In the same way that Taco Bell strives to divorce the food it produces from its cultural context—food that comes from nowhere and has no history—this commercial took a food I have always known as Indian and divorced it from Indianness. Dosa Divas is a game that allows me to release some of the anger I feel about this.
My relationship to the Indian diaspora is complicated. My mother immigrated when she was seven, and her family immigrated before the cap on Asian immigrants was repealed in 1965, meaning that there was no diaspora culture to greet her in America. Add to that that she married a Black man, a lot of Indian Americans just don’t want to have anything to do with me. No joke, I have had many other Indians either tell me I am not Indian or straight up stop speaking to me after learning these facts.
While there are examples of diaspora media products that speak to me—the 2001 movie American Desi, a shortening of the phrase “American Born Confused Desi,” and the music of Heems and MIA—I feel alienated by stories that describe an immigrant experience I have never known. Food was often the one cultural connection I had to other Indians. My mom still makes the recipes she remembers from her youth, and we both follow the handwritten recipes in a notebook that my ammama left for us. But I also find that stories about food in the diaspora community are often pretty shallow, reducing a rich culture into a small number of foods that come from a very specific area of India, or god forbid, telling yet another story about white kids thinking your lunchbox is stinky.

Dosa Divas is not a story about the worthiness of Indian food, nor is it about what white people think about Indian food. From what I’ve played so far, it is a story about how food gets commodified, repackaged, and divorced from the things that make cooking and eating an essential part of creating a community.
Dosa Divas follows sisters Amani and Samara as they take a roadtrip through a science fiction world inspired by Indian culture. Their destination is their old family restaurant, but on the way they discover that their other sister Lina has taken the family business and turned it into an evil corporation that sells meals in tubes. If Lina had the idea to repackage naan as delicious fluffy flatbread, I am certain that she would, but her mission goes farther than that—she wants to rid the world of cooking entirely so that everyone has more time to work sixteen hour shifts in the mines.
As Amani and Samara travel to their hometown, they encounter hungry people who desperately want dosa—and dosa they provide. In the first town, a fishing village, dosa is the thing that empowers people to repair bridges and start planning about how to fight off Lina’s corporate goons. Each dosa is carefully crafted by Amani and Samara together, from ingredients either found in the environment or bartered for. The cooking minigames have not outstayed their welcome so far, but more than the minigames, I love the many different recipes for dosa that you collect as the game goes on. You learn how to make spicy fish dosa and sweet banana dosa and savory veggie dosa, all of which can later be used as healing items during turn-based battles.

In combat, where you face off against Lina’s lawyers, each of the characters' skills and attacks are assigned a flavor value—essentially just taking the RPG genre convention of different elements and replacing them with Salty, Sweet, Sour and Savory. But by attacking an enemy and using their flavor weakness against them you can break their shields and make them Stuffed, allowing you to do more damage. So far it’s just complex enough to be fun without feeling unwieldy, but the (ahem) flavor text around these character abilities really makes them come together for me. Uncle Hinti, the disembodied character who delivers on-screen hints, tells the player that Stuffed enemies are too busy dreaming of a home-cooked meal to bother protecting themselves from attacks. Who among us hasn’t drifted into a daydream thinking about Mom’s idli and walked into scaffolding?
More than anything, Dosa Divas makes me ravenous. I wish more diaspora stories were about how our culture can and is commodified, rather than arguing for its worthiness or reinforcing a specific narrative of diaspora that excludes people like me. But it also, specifically, makes me hungry for dosa. My mom told me that ammama made dosa so thin and crispy and perfectly golden brown that she was gifted with a golden spatula—not very useful for cooking, but a compliment to her skill. I can still taste her dosa in my mouth, hot and oily and just a little bit sour. I can’t have those dosa again, but someday I hope to at least follow her recipe.

Peter Hujar is getting more attention lately than he ever did in his lifetime. Ben Whishaw played him in a movie last year, and a handful of exhibits of his photographs are soon to open, including at Ortuzar gallery and the Morgan Library & Museum. Now, he is the subject of The Wonderful... 

